It is touching how the A Lot Can Happen In 3 Days cross vintage shirt What’s more,I will buy this world stands in solidarity with Ukraine. People from all corners of the city joined together to provide support. This global show of unity is a ray of light in dark times. It reassures us that the values we fight for are universally recognized. We are grateful for the help shown by allies and friends. The past year can be considered a study of human perseverance and love. It reminded us of the nation’s strength, dignity, courage, and determination. We have rediscovered the beauty of our cities, the inexhaustible kindness of our people, and the richness of our culture. We walk with our heads held high towards the future, telling ourselves never to give up. Part of the appeal of Scandi style is its close connection to lifestyle: the magazine dream of large white rooms tastefully appointed with midcentury design and shiny, happy people on bikes. Based in Copenhagen, designer Alectra Rothschild is revealing aspects of the culture that don’t fit in with that high-gloss narrative. “I want to show an alternative, another lifestyle,” she said over coffee in the capital. “My clothes have so much to do with the community I’m from—it’s trans people, it’s nightlife people, it’s DJs, it’s musicians…all these people at the marginsRothschild graduated last spring from the Royal Danish Academy with a collection called Messages From the Stars, which was an exploration of her sartorial selves. “It was about multiplicity and being able to exist as more than one thing,” she explained. “We’re so many people in so many different contexts, so I wanted to frame that through characters. It sort of became an imaginary self-portrait of how I would want to see all parts of myself.” Her debut collection continues in that vein, with references to Kylie Minogue and the Toms (Ford and of Finland) as well as her forever inspirations, Mesdames Grès and Vionnet and Cristóbal Balenciaga. There’s also a cameo from the designer herself in the lineup, which she called Rest in Peace, Masculina. That’s a reference to the designer’s Instagram tag and a nod to where she is in her life, both in terms of headspace and transitioning. “I’m finally allowing myself to be in my practice instead of projecting it,” Rothschild explains. of society. I want to put that lifestyle on a pedestal because I think it deserves to be there.”And she wants to invite everyone to her party. “My collections are so full of gender but in a lot of different ways. It’s for anybody who subscribes to high glamour but a decadent glamour in a rotten way.” And that’s not lip service: The high drama but no-waste draping and ruching techniques that Rothschild specializes in stretches to fit many sizes and kinds of bodies.The idea of a fluid body, the designer explained, translates into fluid shapes created by cutting directly into the fabric, for example. There’s range within the soft or flou elements of the collection. Besides the goddess looks, there are punkish patchworks of stretch with mesh. (Michèle Lamy commissioned one look in this style.) A patchwork explosion of ruffles has an ’80s exuberance, and the sleeves on a stretch pinstripe coat are finished with frills that would make a pirate proud. Structure comes through corsets, crinolines, and distinctively squared shoulders rendered in satin as well as latex; Rothschild plays with its almost inbuilt association with BDSM. She’s also sensitive to those in transition, bonding corset linen to pink lamé for a minidress with cutout breasts meant to be worn with a cleavage-maker bra that threads through the holes. “This look is quite trans specific, [for] trans-feminine people,” Rothschild explained, “because it is about body modification to be more passable [and] hyperfemininity.”Celebrity culture is one of the designer’s fascinations that gives way at times to high camp but not just in terms of aesthetics. Rothschild believes in the transformative power of clothing. “For me, it’s so much more about the way you wear the clothes and the performance that your body naturally makes when you put them on,” she noted. When I asked Rothschild if she understood her work to be in any way Danish, she replied in the affirmative, explaining that in some ways it is a reaction to being immersed in Scandinavian minimalism and having that be the so-called right way of designing. “As a person who loves performance and glamour and all these things so much, it restricted me so much to be here, in terms of the homogenous lifestyle here,” she explained. “Growing up in that—this is just my very personal experience—I felt a lot of shame about wanting to be flamboyant, so I think a lot of my work is also a rebellion against the Danish and [Nordic] aesthetics.”values that are becoming encoded in Danish design, including the minimum sustainability requirements put in place by Copenhagen Fashion Week. In addition to finding no-waste ways to work, she also upcycles fabrics and accessories. This idea of transforming and reshaping what already exists feels symbolic in light of her personal and professional journey. “There’s so much more to everyone than these specific boxes or categories that everybody keeps putting everything in,” Rothschild said. “I just try to create from a space that is not limited and doesn’t have to be anything other than what I need it to be right here at the present moment.” It’s high time for this kind of approach to design. Julien Dossena, who marks his 10th anniversary as creative director of Paco Rabanne this year, will be the fifth guest designer to present a couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier. It’s the first time Puig, the group that owns both houses, has drawn from its own ranks.
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From his home in the A Lot Can Happen In 3 Days cross vintage shirt What’s more,I will buy this Basque region of southwestern France, Gaultier told Vogue, “what stands out about Julien is his personality. He is brilliant, generous, creative.” The couturier had equally fond words for Paco Rabanne, who passed away last month at 88. “Paco and I often crossed paths in St. Jean de Luz, a city we both loved. I had the good fortune of appreciating his joy, his humor, and his good mood.” Gaultier also praised Rabanne’s way of “playing with unexpected, futuristic and innovative materials and making them into signature pieces that have endured through the ages. He was one of the forerunners of the avant-garde fashion of the ’60s, a true master of the art.” Puig, which this week posted record revenue of €3.62 billion for 2022, declined to break out numbers for sales of Gaultier’s guest designer collections. But Antoine Gagey, CEO of Jean Paul Gaultier, said, “every season has been a tremendous success in terms of communications and sales. Our intention is to reinvent ourselves for each collection (…) with the aim of surprising our community and customers. This new collective approach matches Jean Paul Gaultier’s DNA perfectly considering the richness of the archives and the plurality of his codes.” The model, he added, gives the brand an opportunity to attract new customers from different regions and generations who are eager for couture by Gaultier’s guests.For Dossena, who follows Haider Ackermann, Olivier Rousteing, Glenn Martens, and Chitose Abe as guest designer, the Gaultier collaboration brings a couture debut and a chance to change register; unexpected materials may still be in the mix, he said during an exclusive interview with Vogue. This conversation has been condensed.Jean Paul was a hero of my childhood. I think he’s the first designer I saw on TV—because he’s popular everywhere, but especially in France—explaining his métier in a way I understood, given that I grew up in a small town and my family is not at all in fashion. That was the first time I realized that being a designer, a couturier, designing clothes was a profession. That really gave me the first inkling of what I wanted to do, without knowing exactly what form it might take. So he’s very fundamental for me, and I think I’m in good company because for my generation he’s someone who mattered a lot, and still does, in the way we see things.It was his way of making this profession, or at least the idea of it, accessible. His generosity of expression and pleasure are pretty contagious. He’s all about generosity of sharing, and having fun too. And being fearless, doing things instinctively, with tremendous culture but at the same time always offering up a certain idea of individuality, newness, and modernity.
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