Makeup artist Raoúl Alejandre is a strong believer in holistic beauty—that is, going beyond the Six Feet away Dragon please stay T-Shirt in addition I really love this fantasy and what you see on the surface to unlock something much deeper. “Like most of us, I want beauty to continue to broaden up,” he tells Vogue. “Not just by including visual representation of those often marginalized, people like myself, people that don’t fit the set of beauty norms we were once fed to believe in, but also incorporating values, important ones, like mindfulness.” For Alejandre, a California native who is currently based in Los Angeles, the question of when he got his “start” in makeup doesn’t quite apply. “I’ve practiced painting my whole life and makeup was just one of those other mediums I picked up as a kid because I wanted to express myself,” he says. “I would rummage through my mom’s stuff, and when I got to a certain age, I would sort of steal her old makeup and hide it in my sock drawer so that I could play with it on myself.” Through his journey, the artist has developed a signature look that is fiercely elegant. His carefully painted eyes—a soft mashup of baby blue and moss green, a glossy, plum lid—and a pronounced lip, often nude or red, are undisputedly glamorous but don’t scream it. From actors like Alexa Demie and Ryan Destiny to musicians including Rosalía, SZA, and Lil Nas X, everyone Alejandre touches is left with a look of assured confidence that easily captures attention. His inspirations come from legends in their respective fields (Salvador Dalí, Richard Avedon, Federico Fellini, and Siouxsie Sioux), life experiences like moving to New York City for a few years—“It’s where I broke all my rules and really got to know myself,” he says—and interior design. “I could have a meeting with someone or be at dinner with a friend and I’ll look at the ambiance around us; I’ll look at the colors of the food in front of me, how they touch, the textures of the chair, the window treatments, and the lighting fixtures, because they all play such an important role in the final picture,” he explains. It’s this attention to detail that has led to creative partnerships with MAC, Dior Beauty, and Revlon, along with a rolling list of celebrity clientele and publications. For Dazed, Alejandre created a series of makeup looks that were applied solely through Photoshop, proving once more that the digital space is the next frontier for beauty. “Growing up, I had one uncle that was super tech-savvy and he just threw me in at such a young age, teaching me how to create digital designs on Photoshop. On top of that, I was really into *The Sims*—I love how surreal they look, the language, the fashion, and all of the weird gestures that they make.” As Alejandre continues to push the conventional limits of beauty and design, he’s mindful to release himself from the labels and expectations that can develop as an artist establishes themself in this industry. “We grew up being conditioned to believe you have to be either this or that, you have to do this or that, but, no, I want to pick everything. I want to express myself and I want to use makeup as a medium to tap into every other medium. I don’t want to be limited in my lifetime. I want to feel free forever, honestly.”
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Over the Six Feet away Dragon please stay T-Shirt in addition I really love this past year, Niacinamide has sprung up as the It skin-care ingredient. Not for nothing, it’s largely-considered a holy-grail solution for many of the most common skin issues—ones that have only been exacerbated by an influx of maskne and pandemic stress. “Niacinamide is well-loved by those in the know for good reason,” says Blair Murphy-Rose, MD, FAAD, dermatologist and Clinical Assistant Professor at New York Presbyterian Hospital-Weill Cornell Medical Center. Among its many benefits, it’s been shown to reverse and prevent signs of skin aging, brighten and smooth skin, calm inflammation and redness, reduce hyperpigmentation, decrease the appearance of pores, and hydrate and support the skin barrier, she says. Here, a breakdown of what niacinamide is, the multitude of ways it benefits the skin, and the most effective ways to build it into your regimen.Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a form of Vitamin B3 that is water-soluble, which means that it is not stored in the body and is important to replenish. “We can get niacinamides orally through the foods we eat, but they are also ingredients found in skin-care products as they are known to have anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, antioxidant, and skin brightening benefits,” explains New York dermatologist Dendy Engelman. Because niacinamides nourish while calming redness and inflammation, Engelman likens its benefits to that of retinol. “It has similar effects by strengthening the skin barrier, however it fortifies from the get go without sensitivity or irritation,” she explains, adding that it also acts like an antioxidant by limiting free radical damage. What’s more, it boosts hydration. “It prevents transepidermal water loss and actually boosts the ability of other moisturizing ingredients to do so as well,” says Murphy-Rose.To reap the most skincare benefits, apply niacinamide topically in the form of a cream, lotion, or serum—anything that will stay in contact with your skin for plenty of time, unlike a facial cleanser that goes on and off quickly, instructs Murphy-Rose. “Studies have demonstrated that niacinamide penetrates well into the skin and is readily absorbed, so you want your skin to have time to absorb the niacinamide and put it to work,” she explains. Generally speaking, niacinamide can be used at any time of day—one to two times daily depending on the formulation—and generally in combination with other products without issue. Typically, serums are the most potent and have the highest concentrations of actives. “Make sure to use low concentrations of niacinamide as high concentrations can actually cause skin irritation,” cautions Murphy-Rose. She often recommends Pause Well-Aging Detox Serum, which blends niacinamide with willow bark (a natural source of salicylic acid), bromelain from pineapples, and other antioxidants to “help clear pores and reverse signs of aging,” and dermatologist favorite SkinBetter Science’s AlphaRet Overnight Cream, which blends niacinamide with a proprietary mix of a retinoid and alpha hydroxyl acids, advising that you start with one pump every other night for 1-2 weeks and increase to nightly use as tolerated.In treating dark spots and hyperpigmentation, Murphy-Rose recommends using niacinamide with other skin brightening ingredients, such as kojic acid, which is naturally derived from mushrooms and is a byproduct of the fermentation of rice, and transexamic acid, a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine. One of her go-tos is SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense, a dark spot corrector that fights hyperpigmentation with an effective combination of niacinamide, kojic acid, and transexamic acid, while Engelman loves treating sunspots, hyperpigmentation, discoloration, and post-blemish marks with First Aid Beauty’s Facial Radiance Niacinamide Dark Spot Serum, which contains licorice root for added brightening benefits and golden kiwi fruit for a dose of vitamin C. “Always pair with a mineral sunscreen in the morning,” instructs Murphy-Rose. And on the sun protection front, she recommends pairing with a mineral sunblock containing zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide, such as beloved favorite EltaMD UV Clear.To support skin’s overall health, peptides, ceramides, and hyaluronic acid all help to “build a barrier for the skin, so pairing niacinamides with these actives will only enhance effects,” says Engelman, breaking down each below: While some niacinamide-containing products start to show initial benefits in two weeks, most results will show in four weeks or more. “You have to remember that it doesn’t take two days for spots to form so you can’t expect them to be removed in two days either,” explains Engelman. She also adds that if you see immediate results, it’s likely due to a complementary ingredient that is designed to give a temporary immediate effect, which is also desirable. “For most people the little bit of difference is motivation for them to continue using the product, which is what we want anyway.”
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